A coffee plant with ripe coffee cherries.
Both can be enjoyed by any tasting novice, but perceptive depths of flavor and texture can be reached by a trained palate. Both have a signature terroir credited to the environment in which it grows. Both grow in a diverse selection of different varietals, and both have processing methods applied after harvesting that can drastically affect the final flavor profile.
To understand post-harvest processing, one first needs to understand the anatomy of a coffee cherry. Coffee cherries are harvested whole, and each cherry contains two seeds, or unroasted coffee beans; except in the case of peaberry coffee, which contains only one. Inside the fruit pulp, the coffee seed is nestled in several layers, starting with a sticky, membrane-like layer called mucilage. Underneath the mucilage is a papery protective layer known as parchment, followed by the thin and flaky silverskin, which becomes chaff when roasted. Each layer is carefully and deliberately removed, depending on processing method, and the coffee is left to dry to 11%-12% moisture content, which is considered stable enough to export with less risk of becoming moldy if kept in stable conditions while in transit.
Coffee in parchment drying on the patio.
After harvest, the de-pulping, fermentation, and drying methods vary greatly depending on what processing method is being used. There are many processing methods, with more and more variations and experimental methods emerging all the time. Let’s take a look at the most common three.
Washed Process. If you think of coffee like wine, then Washed Process (also known as Wet Process) is the white wine of the coffee world. After harvesting the pulp is removed, usually by a mechanical pulper, then put into fermentation tanks to loosen and remove the mucilage layer. Once this step is completed, the coffee is rinsed and left out to dry on patios or on raised beds; periodically agitated to promote even drying. Once the beans have reached their target moisture content, the parchment layer is hulled and the coffee is bagged for export. Washed Process coffees usually boast a clean cup with subtle acidity and mellow sweetness. It is less labor-intensive to dry washed process coffees, the disadvantage being it uses the most amount of water.
Natural Process. This name can be a little misleading if you take it at face value, because it falsely implies that other coffees are processed “unnaturally.” All semantics aside, Natural Process (also known as Dry Process) is the red wine of the coffee world; drying the beans to the target moisture content with the parchment, mucilage, and fruit pulp left on, usually on raised beds with bottoms made of mesh or breathable fabric to discourage any drying inconsistencies. It is a labor-intensive process, as the coffee must be raked and turned frequently, but is favored in countries that experience less rainfall, due to the fact that it requires no water. Much like red wine, Natural Process coffees tend to have complex fruity notes, but if not cared for meticulously can lead to fermenty notes in the cup.
Pulped Natural Process. Pulped Natural coffee (also known as Honey Process) is the rosé wine of the coffee world. The coffee cherry is pulped immediately after harvest like a Washed process, then the mucilage-covered beans are laid out to dry in raised beds like a Natural process, then hulled when their target moisture content is reached. These beans are regularly agitated to promote even drying, which is especially difficult as these coffees tend to cluster together like Rice Krispie Treats due to the stickiness of the sugary mucilage. Honey Process coffees usually make for a sweet coffee with notes of candied fruit, praline, and golden syrup.
Honey Process coffee agitated by a special rake while drying in raised beds.
Why It’s Important. Much like with wine drinking, it helps to have a working knowledge of how your libation of choice is made. It can help you find new favorites and can help you avoid things you may not enjoy as much. That being said, it’s imperative to try new varieties with an open mind. Even if you’re not usually a fan of Natural Process, try a few anyway! You might find an exception to the rule. Similarly, if you’re usually more of a white wine drinker, don’t forget to sample the occasional red wine. Each farm, each varietal, and even each harvest is different. Coffee and wine are both crops like any other; there will be good years and bad, good fruit and bad, and processing practices and methods both good and bad.
More importantly, it’s imperative to treat each flavor profile with an open-minded perspective and learn the difference between a “defective” coffee and one that you simply don’t enjoy. A “bad” coffee could actually just be a coffee that dissents from your preferences. There are no “right” or “wrong” ways to perceive coffee from a sensory standpoint. Try to look beyond the binary of “I like this,” or “I don’t like this,” and deconstruct why you like or don’t like it. Take notes, even if they’re messy or informal. Your palate will improve over time, and your perception of tasting notes will sharpen and refine.
